But with this dish, the low-alcohol IPA expresses its secondary herbal notes nicely. Drinking it is a little like biting into a grapefruit. It’s an acquired taste, we think, because the Citra hop is so astringent. It’s a beer we’d usually serve with bar snacks instead of real food. But it was the beer pairing that accomplished that gastronomic bait and switch.īurns and the Harvest team picked Evil Twin Citra Sunshine Slacker for the pairing. Their flavors were almost secondary to the intensity of the two purées. The fish and the salsify (which tastes like mild artichoke heart) were both mild. “I want the beer to highlight maybe the third or even fourth flavor.” Sea bass with an IPAīurns prepared a small portion of sea bass with a few pieces of grilled salsify and two purées on the plate-one of fennel, the other of the minty Asian vegetable shiso. “I might put four or five flavors together on a plate,” he explained. When Burns is choosing a beer to pair with a dish, he explains, he looks for the secondary flavors of the food. One sip brought out the Demerara sugar in the trout cure and the earthy toast of the rye crumbs for a completely altered taste experience. The beer has a slightly sweet, earthy flavor profile and a rounded mouth feel. The beer pairing was Blackberry Farm Abbey Blonde, a light ale made with a Pilsner malt. Slightly bitter dandelion greens and toasted rye crumbs provided crunchy contrast to the soft trout and beet. The trout was cured with sea salt, Demerara sugar (a coarse, raw sugar), and licorice powder. Yet the cure was light enough that the dish turned out to be surprisingly subtle. It doesn’t get much more Nordic than gravlax, beet root, and licorice. To demonstrate how a panoply of flavors can be enhanced with a beer, Burns and Kinnett served a plate of licorice-cured trout with pickled beet topped by dandelion greens.īurns was René Redzepi’s sous chef at Noma in Copenhagen, and the experience shaped his palate to favor Nordic tastes. Gravlax is a style of curing raw fish or meat using salt and sugar. A couple of dishes also hint at how to go about the beer-pairing process at home (beyond serving Bud with chili). The meal Burns and Kinnett served at Harvest was a demonstration. So as a chef, beer gives me a vast spectrum of flavors to choose from when I’m pairing beer with food.” You can take ingredients from all over the world and add any flavors you want. “Wine is a pure expression of terroir,” he explains. This kept the individual portions fairly small, while giving each beer more head room to express the complexity of aromas.īurns believes that beer can be more flexible than wine for food pairings. All the drinks were served in wine glasses. Part manifesto, part cookbook, part a dialogue on gastronomic philosophy, it’s a perfect addition to the bookshelf of anyone who cares about the cutting edge in contemporary restaurant cuisine.Īs part of the book’s launch, Burns did a star turn at Harvest restaurant ( ) in Cambridge, where he and Harvest executive chef Tyler Kinnett adapted some of the recipes from Food & Beer to pair with craft beers. And they have collaborated on a fascinating new book called simply Food & Beer. (Jarnit-Bjergsø is also the brewer at cult favorite Evil Twin Brewing.)īetween them, they have put craft beer on a par with wine for fine dining. Burns runs the kitchen of the Michelin-starred Luksus ( It shares a space in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, with the bar Tørst (Danish for “toast”) operated by Danish brewer Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. Chef Daniel Burns is on a mission to bring beer pairing into the fine dining conversation.
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